My mother gave me two hand knit dust mitts over 30 years ago and, of course, they are long gone. Since we are again discussing becoming "green",   I thought this was the perfect time to share this machine-knit version with you. Adjust the size by adding or deleting stitches/rows.

Yarn:	This is your opportunity to use up odd bits of Bramwell Fine 4-ply (or its equivalent). Cotton yarn can be used but keep it in the 5/2 range and your machine will remain happy.
Machine:	DM80 or E6000. Cast on 2x2 rib manually or use cast on #4. Body is knit without console.
Accessory:	Stitch Release Tool. If you do not have one, release the stitches manually every 2 rows by using the orange ruler. The mitt can also be knit without releasing the stitches every 2 rows but you will spend more time picking out the loops than if you had taken the time to release the stitches as you knit (trust me on this one).

• Cast on 60 stitches in 2x2 rib or cast on #4 (E6000) using the following stitch sizes. Hang cast on comb and 1 weight after first row.

  SS 1.5/1.5	N/N	K1R	RC001
  SS 3.5/3.5	CX/CX	K2R	RC003
  SS 3.5/3.5	N/N	K1R	RC004

• Cast on complete.
  

  SS 4/4	N/N	K20R	RC024

• Transfer FB stitches to BB.
  

  SS 4.5/4.5	N/N	K2R	RC026

• Place BB pushers in 1x1 formation.
  
• Place center 34 (-17/+17) FB needles into working position.
  
• Orange strippers. Use claw weights at each end if you need to.
  

  SS 4.5/4.5

  FX←/CX

  K128R

  RC154

• Release FB stitches after every 2 rows. At RC154 release the last row and put all FB needles out of work.
  

  SS 4.5/4.5	N/N	K1R	RC155
  SS 5/5	N/N	K1R	RC156

• Transfer every other BB stitch to an adjacent BB needle.
  

  SS 5/5	N/N	K2R	RC158

• Pull down a long yarn tail, thread it into a bodkin, and remove each stitch from its needle onto the bodkin.
  
• Seam the two edges together. Draw up the stitches which are on the yarn tail and close up the top. You are now finished. Spray the Dust Mitt with your favorite furniture cleaner, let it dry slightly, and dust away. Just throw it into the washer and dryer when it becomes dirty.

Happy Dusting!

The technique I call "Squiggle Lace" makes use of partial knitting with needles out of work. Before we discuss variations and design rules, we will need to understand how the technique is knit.

Let's take a look at the knitted sample used above. Note that each ribbon is 6 stitches wide with a 2 stitch space. This is then an 8-stitch repeat. This information will be used to set up a sample project.

Horizontal Repeat:   This pattern uses multiples of 8 needles, plus 6 needles (i.e., 4 repeats of the pattern is 4 x 8 + 6 = 38 needles)

Pattern Set Up for the Sample:   Cast on 38 (19/19). Knit several rows ending with carriage at the right. Beginning at the right, skip the first 6 needles and transfer stitches on needles 7 and 8 to adjacent needles. Place empty needles out of work. Continue across the bed transferring needles 7 and 8 of each group of 8 needles. You will end with a group of 6 needles in work at the left-hand side.

Knitting the Sample:   There is a sequence to use to knit this technique which will eventually fall into a rhythm that you will become familiar with quickly. So, here we go.

• A full vertical repeat of this pattern is to knit on groups of 6 needles from right to left and then from left to right.
• SS7. Hold lever engaged or both Russel levers set to II. Push all but first group of 6 needles at right to hold position.
  1. Knit 4 rows. COR.
  2. Push next group of 6 needles to the left to work position.
  3. Knit 7 rows. COL.
  4. Push first group of 6 needles at the far right to hold position.
  5. Knit 1 row. COR.
  6. Push next group of 6 needles to the left to work position.
  7. Knit 7 rows. COL.
  8. Push next group of 6 needles at the far right to hold position.
  9. Knit 1 row. COR.
  10. Repeat across the bed. The end of the right to left sequence will be when you have knit 7 rows over the last two groups of needles and then the inside group of needles are placed into hold position. Your carriage will be at the left.
  11. Begin back at step 2, but this time working from left to right.
• This is the end of one vertical pattern repeat. Knit as many repeats as necessary for desired length ending with knitting 4 rows over the last group of needles at the right.

• Keep a knitting journal as you sample different needle set-ups and knitting sequences.
• A group of needles is needed at both ends that appear to be knit straight. This will make it easier to seam a garment. During my sampling it worked best if this group contained at least 6 needles because it seemed to stabilize the fabric.
• It is recommended that you begin with at least 4 rows of knitting over the first group of needles because it produces a pleasing curve to the pattern. You can sample more or less rows to determine what you like.
• The instruction "knit 1 row" will not change because it is a transition point.
• The number of rows knit over the needle groups can be modified (3, 5, 7, etc.) However, it must be used consistently across the width of the fabric to keep it balanced. Note: an odd number is used so that the carriage will end up on the correct side.

• The above sample has a 2-needle space. Try setting up a pattern with 1-needle spaces. Try again with 3 (or more) needle spaces.
• Make ribbons of 2, 3, 4 (or more) stitches.
• Knit one-half of the repeat (i.e., right to left) and then knit some plain rows over all of the needles before beginning the second half of the repeat (i.e., left to right).
• Add a third group of needles to the sequence (i.e., first group, k4; add second group, k5; add third group, *k1; remove first group, k5, add a third group, and repeat from *).
• I know that I have not listed all of the variations but it is now your turn to play with the technique.

• Use as a yoke in an otherwise plain sweater.
• Use as a scarf/stole/shawl.
• Use as an insert down the center of your sweater.
• Use as an insert down the center of your sleeve.

The technique I call "Squiggle Lace" makes use of partial knitting with needles out of work. Pattern 6016 in Model Book 60 uses this technique to create a garment. Before we discuss variations and design rules, let's look at the design in 6016.

Horizontal Repeats:   This pattern uses multiples of 8 needles, plus 6 needles (i.e., 4 repeats of the pattern is 4 x 8 + 6 = 38 needles)

Pattern Set Up:   Cast on 38 (19/19). Knit several rows ending with locks on the right. Beginning at the right, skip the first 6 FB needles and transfer stitches on needles 7 and 8 to adjacent needles. Place empty needles out of work. Continue across the bed transferring needles 7 and 8 of each group of 8 needles. You will end with a group of 6 needles in work at the left-hand side. In order for the FB pushers to stay in working position as we knit, the E6000 console must have been returned to PROG before it was last turned off. If it is not at PROG, then push the >>> key, turn the console off, wait a few minutes, and turn it back on. You can now leave it on with the PROG flashing.

Knitting the Sample:   There is a sequence to use to knit this technique which will eventually fall into a rhythm that you will become familiar with quickly. So, here we go.

• A full vertical repeat of this pattern is to knit on groups of 6 needles from right to left and then from left to right.
• SS6. E6000(LX). DM80(BX). Black strippers.
  1. At the right, put 6 pushers up in working position under first group of 6.
  2. Knit 4 rows. COR.
  3. Put next group of 6 pushers to the left to working position.
  4. Knit 7 rows. COL.
  5. Put first group of 6 pushers into the rail (E6000) or to rest (DM80).
  6. Knit 1 row. COR.
  7. * Put next group of 6 pushers to the left in working position;
  8. Knit 7 rows. COL.
  9. Put right group of pushers into non-working position. E6000 (pushers in the rail). DM80 (pushers at rest against the rail).
  10. Knit 1 row. COR.*
  11. Repeat from * to * as you continue to knit the whole width from right to left. COR.
  12. Knit 20 rows over all needles by putting pushers up under all needles OR changing the lock setting to N.
• This is the end of one vertical pattern repeat. Knit as many repeats as necessary beginning at step 1.

• Keep a knitting journal as you sample different needle set-ups and knitting sequences.
• A group of needles is needed at both ends that knit plain. This will make it easier to seam the garment. This group should contain at least 6 needles because fewer than that will make the piece hard to block and will stabilize the pattern.
• It is recommended that you begin with at least 4 rows of knitting over the first group of needles because it produces a pleasing curve to the pattern. You can sample more or less rows to see if you like it.
• The instruction "knit 1 row" will not change because it is a transition point.
• The number of rows knit over the needle groups can be modified (3, 5, 7, etc.) However, it must be used consistently across the width of the fabric to keep it balanced. Note: an odd number is used so that the lock will be on the correct side.

• The above sample has a 2-needle space. Try setting up a pattern with 1-needle spaces. Try again with 3 (or more) needle spaces.
• Make ribbons of 2, 3, 4 (or more) stitches.
• Knit one-half of the repeat (i.e., right to left) and then knit some plain rows over all of the needles before beginning the second half of the repeat (i.e., left to right).
• Add a third group of needles to the sequence (i.e., first group, k4; add second group, k5; add third group, *k1; remove first group, k5, add a third group, and repeat from *).
• I know that I have not listed all of the variations but it is now your turn to play with the technique.

• Use as a yoke in an otherwise plain sweater.
• Use as a scarf/stole/shawl.
• Use as an insert down the center of your sweater.
• Use as an insert down the center of your sleeve.